Updating the rig was uneventful. I took measurements of the existing wires and created the new shrouds/stays using Sta-Lok fittings and Hayn bronze turnbuckles. Assembly was easy and the project took about two days to complete. As anticipated, the most challenging part of the process was running the new wire through the two furling foils and then attaching the fittings in a rather confined space. Dealing with the foil wires probably took as much time as assembling the other nine. In the end, everything went together just fine.
I’d include my own directions/recommendations for rigging Sta-Loks, but Rich Abato, another CD36’er, details the process on his website in clear, easy-to-follow directions: SV Mahalo Rigging Page. I will emphasize Rich’s suggestion of using a high-tension hacksaw and a good blade – as opposed to the Ace or hardware store variety. I bought a Lenox high-tension hacksaw, equipped with a 24tpi blade. It worked marvelously, cutting quickly and smoothly each time. In all, the blade made at least 24 separate cuts and was still cutting quickly and cleanly at the end.
Earlier I had posted about wire sizes and beefing up the rig. I decided to keep the original wire size. I’ve heard that a lot of people like to go up a size when re-rigging, but I didn’t see the point. The CD36 spar section is stout, it’s a well-stayed low-aspect rig with good geometry, and the original wire sizes worked for 35 years. I saved money by sticking with the original wire size, as well as weight aloft.