Tag Archives: stalok

FOR SALE: Sta-Lok Fittings

I have a collection of NEW Sta-Lok fittings for sale. Please see the inventory below. I’d be willing to make a deal on the whole lot or on partial lots. Email or comment here if you are interested.

5/32″ wire:
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6 qty – Terminal Studs with 5/16″ threads – $20.00/each (Retail: $28.00/each)
9/32″ wire:
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12 qty – Fork with 7/16″ pin – 45.00/each (Retail: $67.00/each)
6 qty – Eye with 1/2″ pin hole – 35.00/each (Retail: $44.00/each)
8 qty – Terminal Stud w/ 1/2″ thread – $45.00/each (Retail: $53.00/each)
5/16″ wire:
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12 qty – Fork with 1/2″ pin – $64.00/each (Retail: $80.00/each)
7 qty – Eye with 5/8″ pin hole – $45.00/each (Retail: $66.00/each)
10 qty – Terminal Stud w/ 1/2″ thread – 50.00/each (Retail: $62.00)
3/8″ wire: (CD36 Bobstay, by the way)
14 qty – Fork with 5/8″ pin – $76.00/each (Retail: $100.00)
2 qty – Eye with 5/8″ pin hole – $67.00/each (Retail: $81.00)
8 qty – Terminal Stud w/ 5/8″ thread – $70.00 (Retail: $89.00) 

And just in case you have 7/16″ rigging :):

7/16″ wire Eye with with 3/4″ pin hole – $100.00 (Retail: $200.00)

Rigging Complete

Updating the rig was uneventful. I took measurements of the existing wires and created the new shrouds/stays using Sta-Lok fittings and Hayn bronze turnbuckles. Assembly was easy and the project took about two days to complete. As anticipated, the most challenging part of the process was running the new wire through the two furling foils and then attaching the fittings in a rather confined space. Dealing with the foil wires probably took as much time as assembling the other nine. In the end, everything went together just fine.

I’d include my own directions/recommendations for rigging Sta-Loks, but Rich Abato, another CD36’er, details the process on his website in clear, easy-to-follow directions: SV Mahalo Rigging Page. I will emphasize Rich’s suggestion of using a high-tension hacksaw and a good blade – as opposed to the Ace or hardware store variety. I bought a Lenox high-tension hacksaw, equipped with a 24tpi blade. It worked marvelously, cutting quickly and smoothly each time. In all, the blade made at least 24 separate cuts and was still cutting quickly and cleanly at the end.

Earlier I had posted about wire sizes and beefing up the rig. I decided to keep the original wire size. I’ve heard that a lot of people like to go up a size when re-rigging, but I didn’t see the point. The CD36 spar section is stout, it’s a well-stayed low-aspect rig with good geometry, and the original wire sizes worked for 35 years. I saved money by sticking with the original wire size, as well as weight aloft.

 

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Time to replace standing rigging

Ariel rolled off the Cape Dory production line in 1979. As far as we know, her standing rigging is original. Even though she’s a freshwater boat and spends half of her life on the hard each year, her rigging – which is in great shape for its age – is now 36 years old. Most riggers out there will probably tell you that 10-15 years in a saltwater environment means it’s time to replace. Take into consideration life as a freshwater boat, and 20-25  might be pushing it. Since we’re not eager to push our luck anymore than we have, Ariel’s getting all new standing rigging, including bronze Hayn turnbuckles.

I know a lot of boat owners decide to go up one wire size when re-rigging because 316 wire is a tad weaker than 304, but I decided to keep the wire sizes the same – 9/32″ and 1/4″ – primarily because I already had on-hand enough Sta-Lok mechanical fittings to handle the cap shrouds, backstay, and headstay. (Sadly, I have a stack of 5/16″ fittings, but the pin sizes are 5/8″ instead of the necessary 1/2″).

Based upon recommendations within the CD community, I ordered wire and fittings through Rigging Only out of Fairhaven, MA. Rather than spend a lot of extra money for Sta-Loks all around, I ordered swaged toggle fittings for the upper ends of the intermediates and lower shrouds. The lower ends will be Sta-Lok threaded studs attached to new bronze turnbuckles. Ordering enough Sta-Loks for all the wire would have increased the cost more than a couple hundred dollars, too much of a stretch for an already-stretched budget.

For anyone considering re-rigging, here’s a list of parts and cost:

ArielRiggingIntermediates ArielRiggingLowerShrouds ArielRiggingLowerStaysail ArielRiggingMasthead

Since no post is complete without a picture, here’s one of the mast ready to be pulled last fall.

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